These are the lands of testament and prophecy, of sacrifice and sacrament, of seers and sages, of vision and vicissitude, of warriors and holy men. The spiritual and the temporal have melded here since time immemorial. We still see the remnants of ancient empires and the echoes of their faiths. We can chart their decline and fall in the fortunes of their monuments and their mausoleums, in the “tumbled towers and fallen stones, broken statues, empty tombs” where “ghosts of commoners and kings walk the walls and catacombs of the castles and the shrines”. Histories carved in stone,  mysteries locked in stone, as “canyons and castles pass ageless and ageing and captive in time”.  Forward to East – An Arab Anthology.  © Paul Hemphill

Jerusalem

• Amazing Grace – there’s magic in the air
• Messianic Carpet Rides
• Rocky road to Heaven’s Gate
• Once in Royal David’s Citadel
• The grand old New Imperial Hotel
• Nova Via Dolorosa
• King Herod’s edifice complex
• There rides a Peace Train
• O  Jerusalem – a song

Israel and Palestine

• The Mizrahi Factor
• O Little Town of Bethlehem, how still we see thee lie…
• A Fortess But Not Yet a Home
• Dear Zealots – letters from a divided land
• Rocky road to Heaven’s Gate
• Ahed Tamimi – A Family Affair
• Riding shotgun in Jerusalem
• The View From a Balcony in Jerusalem
• Is an Israeli-Paestinian confederation possible?
• The hand that signed the paper
• Seeing through the eyes of the other
• Castles made of sand
• Throwing Abbas under the bus
• Children of Abraham
• Bob Dylan’s 115th dream – a Jerusalem reverie 

Ottomans and Others

• A brief history of the rise and fall of the west
• Islam’s house of many mansions
• East – an anthology
• Ottoman Redux – an alternative history
• Sailing to Byzantium
• The Watchers of the Water
• Cha-cha-cha-changes
• People watching in Sultanahmet
• Pity the nation that is full of beliefs and empty of religion
• Children of the revolution
• The devil drives
• One, two, three, what are we fighting for?
• The Man with the Plan
• Rojava and the Kurdish conundrum
• The ghosts of Gandamak
• Messing with the Mullahs – America’s phoney war? 

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